Author: David Gunderson
Driving through South Africa's Addo Elephant National Park, you first notice the pachyderms for which the reserve is named when you see foliage moving. A likely scenario: A herd is lunching on leaves and thorn-tree bark on its way to a watering hole and then appears, as if by magic. The park is home to about 450 elephants, the densest population of African elephants in the world, according to park officials. Their numbers are amazing, considering that in the 1920s local farmers called for their extermination. As public sentiment changed, a refuge for the remaining 11, yes, 11, elephants was created in 1931. My first impression of Addo, which lies an hour's drive north of Port Elizabeth, was that it's not quite wild; in fact, it seems almost manicured. Roads are carefully laid out and graded, getting close -- but not too close -- to animal watering holes. In contrast, trails in east Africa are established but seldom graded, and get as close as possible to the animals' favorite spots.  While the distance at Addo may not be good for photography, it's undoubtedly good for the elephants. The park is their refuge, after all. And it's a big one: Addo covers about 630 square miles, stretching in a long, jagged line toward the sea. Plans are in the works to expand the park to 1,390 square miles by acquiring land and rehabilitating it for wildlife. The park also encompasses coastal dunes and a 350-square-mile marine reserve frequented by southern right whales and great white sharks, plus islands where Cape gannets and African penguins breed. Elephants share the park with Cape buffalo, antelope, warthogs, ostriches, zebras and monkeys. Black rhinos, lions and leopards are said to live there, as well, although I did not spot any. Nor did I see flightless dung beetles, which are protected by law. But I did espy a tall secretary bird, its muscular legs carrying it forthrightly through the bush as it looked for snakes. Tours are available, with park rangers as guides. The rangers' early-morning drives take tourists down service roads that run much closer to watering holes. The tours cost from $21 to $32, depending on time of day, in addition to an entrance fee of about $11 per adult and $5.50 for kids under 12. Day drives are said to be best for seeing herds of elephants, and sunset is best for black rhinos and lions. Leopards are seen only with perseverance and luck. Walking tours and horseback tours are available in some parts of the park. While encounters with large animals are possible, no lions or hyenas roam in those areas. Self-drive tours can be arranged, as well. Addo is considered malaria-free, so preventative medication is not necessary. Accommodations are available within the park, from campsites and safari tents to huts and chalets that can house families. Cooking facilities are usually included. Luxury, however, should not be expected. Rates range from $16 to $235 per night, depending on type and size of accommodations.
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